Barkley Fall Classic 2024

Here’s what I wrote on social media immediately following the race:

Hardest Barkley Fall Classic yet, both in terms of course difficulty but also in how I felt. 24% finishing rate for the 50k. Heat was brutal. Chimney Top at the start and having to do it a 2nd time at the decision point (marathon vs. 50k) was really tough. I had a bunch of issues all day like feeling way over heated even early in the morning when it wasn’t that hot, cramping, and wanting to quit all day. My quads locked about an hour into the 50k loop, so I sat down and was thinking I should turn back. Then I projectile vomited — 1st time ever — and that was it — I was going back. But I needed time before I could move. About 5 minutes later I was feeling better. Going back for a sure DNF vs going forward for a likely DNF (cut off was getting closer and closer) — what to do? I finally decided if I was going to DNF either way, I was going to go out trying. I had an hour climb in front of me, maybe 90 minutes, and then less than an hour to get down the mountain to the finish. I somehow eeked it out and am now 6 for 6 on 60k finishes. Very proud of that.

But I’d like to include a little more detail, here.

First, this year, Kelly was able to drive over with me Thursday, and coincidentally enough, Ben and Karrie from CO where in Asheville for the day, so we were able to meet them at Salsa’s for a late lunch.

Next, we kept driving towards Knoxville and Frozen Head, and there were still some BFC folks at the Beer Barn in Oliver Springs just outside the park, so we headed over there for a little while, before going to Frozen Head.

Friday was the normal routine — I rode my bike down to the start/finish, to help Laz and crew set up the barricades and flags, then over to packet pick up at noon, on to The Wardens Table for lunch and map study, then Starbucks to work a little. And this year, Carey had invited 20 or so runners over for dinner, so we did that. Then it was back the park for final gear prep and an early bed time.

Next morning we were up early, and I again opted to ride the bike down to the start instead of driving and parking the van. Jenny, the race photographer, captured these photos as she said “oh the bike people are back!”

The course looked to be difficult, starting on Chimney, and then having a 2nd Chimney after the decision point to get the full 50k. Chimney at the start was especially interesting and challenging as the single track starts just .6 miles in, long before the 400+ runners would really spread out. Do you go just a touch faster to not get stuck in long conga lines, or do you take it chill know it’s a long day? My best racing has always been when I start slow and build…. So i tried to find a balance of moderate to moderate+, but not too hard. Not sure it worked as the rest of the day was not great!

Here’s a bulleted list of what went wrong early:

  • Within the 1st 30 minutes, my feet started tingling and getting numb. In the past, this has only happened during cold runs, never warm. This would last about an hour, until we had summited Chimney and started to run vs. all the power hiking on the way up.
  • I felt extremely hot, even a bit clammy, while summiting Chimney. And there was a slight cool breeze up there, so I should not have felt so hot. This feeling would come back multiple times during the day, always while climbing. Though not while climbing the out of park sections Rat Jaw, Meth, and TS. Those sections were just so brutally hot and exposed, I felt the normal effects of heat there, not the clamminess.
  • I also started cramping early, maybe 2-3 hours in? First in the feet, and later quads and adductors. Not as bad as my first year at BFC when I cramped all the way up to the fingers!

So all in all, a real suffer fest early and throughout the day and worst at the end, which I’m getting to.

A few photos – all of which capture me smiling, which is not at all how I felt! But it helps to know roughly where the photographers are and put on a good face, no matter how bad you are suffering.

Climbing Meth
Top of Rat Jaw
Summiting Rat

I did see Kelly at the top of Rat, just before the Fire Tower climb. She was out backpack training and had climbed Chimney, after the racers had gone through. I told her how bad I was feeling and that I was worried about being able to finish.

From Chimney, it was back down to the park, then up Bird to Ross Gap, and down to the decision point. I had wanted at least a 4 hour buffer (1 hour to the decision point before the cut off), and that had shrunk a lot due to how I felt. However, that last section was my strongest part of the race and according to the intermediary timing results, I had worked my way up from 150th at aid one to 64th at the decision point.

I reached Laz and he asked me which way I was going. I told him of course 50k, even though I thought it would be tight, and he said I had plenty of time, and that I looked great. Now that I see the photos I would agree I looked pretty good, but it was all a facade ready to crumble — I felt terrible!

I knew a 2nd chimney climb was going to be tough and take a long time, and I only felt worse and worse. Chimney has an initial climb before you drop down some to tackle the big climb (see profile below). I sat at the top of that initial climb for a few minutes thinking I should probably go back, but opted to keep going forward.

At the very beginning of the 2nd climb, both upper quads locked, and I had to sit. Within a minute of sitting, I projectile vomited – something I’ve never done! This lasted 2-3 minutes, and I lost all hydration and nutrition for the last hour or so. And I should rewind just a minute — when we started up Chimney there was an aid station, and I tried to eat one bite of a bar, but it didn’t go down well. And either just before or after that, I think before, I had tried to slurp a bit of gel, and that almost came back up.

So here I am with limited hydration and nutrition, not able to eat, barely able to sip water, with a huge climb in front of me. Probably an hour or more back for a definite DNF, or a 2.5 hours forward for a likely DNF. I had decided to go back, but several other runners urged me on. And after sitting for 5 minutes with an empty stomach, I felt better. So I opted to go forward.

Here’s an elevation profile of chimney from a training run I had done in the past, showing where I sat cramping and vomiting, trying to decide if I should go back for an definite DNF vs. go forward for a likley DNF. And to remove any doubt, here is the Strava link to that training run (since GPS is not allowed at BFC): https://www.strava.com/activities/6712489089

It was a long climb up chimney, with lots of stopping. But I kept thinking, if I can make it to the top, it’s only ~3 miles down to the finish, and I’ll have shot. Moving downhill wasn’t nearly as bad as trying to climb.

And that is what happened… I made it to the top, and shuffling down was ok. I reached the finish line with 21 minutes to spare – my closest BFC finish yet.

But I’m 6 for 6 on 50k finishes, and I’m really proud of that.

Here are the splits and ranks:

Screenshot

On the one hand, it feels like a real set back to have had such a rough go this year, and really, to be honest, last year wasn’t much better (though there I had a better 2nd half after climbing out of the emotional whirlwind I was suffering due to my Dad’s sudden passing just a couple of weeks prior).

But on the other hand, the grit I had to have to overcome wanting to quit most of the day, and being so close to turning back after the projectile vomiting bit, shows I can still dig deep and get hard things done.

It’s hard to not feel a bit of imposter syndrome in wanting to do bigger/harder things, but I also have to consider that training was not geared specifically for this kind of event, since I also wanted to complete IronDad in memory of my Dad just three weeks later. I.e. I had a very hybrid training approach to do both of these events so close together, and perhaps if I had only focused on BFC, the day would have gone much better. Of course, it could have just been a bad day — I never figured out why I felt so hot and clammy even early in the day when it was cool.

IronDad

My Dad passed away on September 4, 2023, as I wrote a little bit about in last year’s BFC post. But sometime after that, earlier in 2024 I suppose, I started thinking that I would do an Ironman to honor and commemorate his life. He was an Ironman, with over 20 IM finishes all over the world. In fact, I was able to watch him race in Lake Placid, Western Australia, and in Kona in 2012, where the photo above was taken.

When I was 12 years old I watched Julie Moss crawl across the finish line and told myself someday I’d do an Ironman. And while I did a few triathlons in the mid 90s and even early 2000’s, I soon discovered Adventure Racing, and drifted away from the sport. And eventually found Ultra Running, and never made my way back to triathlons.

But this was my chance to do it one time — in my own way. I first searched around for off road Iron Distance events, and only found one, but the location and timing of that didn’t work out. So I started thinking about doing my own solo / unsupported / non-event Ironman, and I came up with a plan… We’ve spent the last couple Labor Days at Lake Tillery, and I was able to work it out with the support of my brother-in-law and father-in-law to go a day early, to have them support me in the boat.

I was up around 5:30 – 6:00 and we were in the boat heading up river around 6:45 for a 7:00 am start. No one was on the water, and it was beautiful.

I figured I’d be in the water around 80-90 minutes, and that’s exactly what it was. I had hoped for a little current in the river or draft of the boat to speed me up, but no luck!

A change of clothes and some food, and it was off on the bike. I had a roughly 50-52 mile loop to start, so that I could come back to the house and eat and resupply food and water. The 2nd loop got really really hot (93F!) and I finally called Kelly who was driving over for the weekend, and asked her to bring a couple bottles of ice water so I could dump them over me and try to bring my body temp down. After that, I met Kelly a few miles away to ride about 10 miles of gravel — while I had originally thought to do a lot of the “event” on gravel, in the end I opted for a lot more pavement so I wouldn’t be out there 24 hours or more!

(I blame the RD on the slightly short distance — but in reality the addition of the gravel ride as well as some looping back and forth, and I’m guessing I was less than 2 miles off!)

On to the run. I had plotted a course from the house up into Uwharrie where I’d hit the same trail I’ve run the 40 mile race on ten times. This would have been difficult on a few fronts — water was so low that filtering would have been difficult, so I would have needed water support twice, and I was trying not to be a burden on the family. I still set out with that plan in mind, but then a crazy rain, wind, and lightening storm hit about 2 miles in to the run! Normally I wouldn’t be too bothered by that, but the trees bending over the road and the lightening finally forced me to seek shelter. Luckily, there as a “strip mall” style church I was near, though just a single building:

I sat on that bench for maybe 10 minutes before I thought “with this awning, I can probably go back and forth.” And each length, the GPS picked up 0.01 miles! And you better believe I took advantage of that — for about 40 minutes while waiting for the storm to settle down, I went back and forth and covered nearly 2 miles:

Once the storm calmed down, it was getting dark, and River Road was pretty busy with people coming in for the weekend. And visibility was bad with it still raining and foggy. I’d have to go a couple more miles on that road with all the traffic, and then need water support. So I opted to go back to the neighborhood which is relatively small, but I thought I could get a 2-3 mile loop in. That worked just a couple times before I got blocked out of the neighborhood by an aggressive dog! I did another mile back and forth just in the beginning of the neighborhood before I finally pulled out my mace, found a big stick, and started yelling at the dog. With the rain it was foggy and misty and I couldn’t really see it, but the barking backed off and I was eventually able to get by. But now I had 10 more miles to go and was down to running 1/3 mile on 3 different roads, going back to the house every 2.5 miles to get water and/or fuel.

Thank goodness Kelly and Riley came out for the last two hours, or I might not have finished. But I persevered and did finally get it done!

Here’s that 3 way intersection I hit oh so many times!! Oh, and by the way, this is a very hilly area as you can see – 2500′ of climb!

Again I blame the RD here for showing 25.2 miles. But in reality with the amount of turning back and forth, this is another time I’m gong to say the GPS would likely be short. 🙂

I finished up around mid-night. I estimate I spent at least an hour “in transition” (if not 90 minutes!) making my own food and filling my own bottles, etc. And it was never really about time, it was wanting to do something my Dad had done so many times.

Next morning I was able to put on his Kona finishers hoodie:

I’m pretty sure I’m one and done for Iron Distance events, though I do love to swim, and have come to enjoy the gravel bike. Not so much on pavement with traffic, though… And while I was training, YouTube some how figured it out and kept showing me all kinds of documentaries about extreme events like the NorseMan… So you never know!

But for me, doing this event in honor of my Dad’s life was important to me, and I’m glad I was able to get it done.

2024 Mt Mitchell Heartbreaker

This race was a struggle for me last year as I was pretty sick and probably shouldn’t have been running. This year, I got off the wait list about 4 weeks out. Oh Snap! I’d not run more than 8 miles since Hellgate back in December! So I quickly got a 20 miler in 4 weeks out, and a 17 miler in 3 weeks out, as my only prep. But the philosophy is “The Event is Life,” and taking that to heart, I should be able to jump into just about any crazy adventure in a very short time period. So it’s not like I hadn’t been training, I just hadn’t done any long runs in 3 months.

My phone died early so I only have two photos from the course that I took!

The race photographer caught these two:

Casey and Riley surprised me at the finish, so I have these as well:

I ran much better this year — as I should have not being sick. 13 hrs 14 minutes compared to 14:22:51 — so over an hour faster. I was also 33rd out of 97 finishers and 120 starters. So not too bad for an old man that feels quite slow these days! I’ll take it!

My only real insights is that I’m a strong climber — this race has 3 major climbs and I did not get passed on one of them, but often passed 5 or more other runners. But most of the time, all of those I passed would fly by me on the downhills. I was once a good downhill runner, but as you get older, you get wiser (or more likely just scared). I do worry about blowing up the quads going too fast downhill too early, but there were also some technical trails here that are sketchy (to me) to take too fast.

Strava data:

Funny last year’s GPS data showed over 14k, which I know is wrong. But I think this course is closer to 12,500 not 11,608!

Nutrition was a base of vFuel and Tailwind, and I supplemented at the aid stations with whatever looked good. At the last aid, I grabbed a 1/4 grilled cheese and started back on course. About 20 steps in I took a bite and immediately turned around to get a couple more — they were so good!

Gear was Hoka Speedgoat 5, injinji toe socks, XO skin base liner with a TenThousand short above, and then the Hellgate Patagonia Capiline from 2021 up top, with a NorthFace vest when the weather got cold. I did wait too long to put on my injinji gloves climbing Mitchell, where the weather was mid 30’s and damp and windy. Should have put them on much sooner and I suffered for that. I didn’t bother changing into dry socks up top — I knew the trails down were going to be swampy and they were.

Shoutout to Brandon and Tanawha Adventures — they always put on great races. Great course, great aid stations, very well organized, etc.

2023 training and racing year in review

2023 ended up having more races than recent years — I think I did 6 or 7 ultras — Uwharrie (40 miles) (10th time, I’m now retired!) (*), Mount Mitchell Challenge (40 miles), Mount Mitchell Heartbreaker (50 miles, 14k elevation), Grand Canyon adventure run (40 miles), Barkley Fall Classic (~35 miles, 12k of elevation, and Hellgate (66 miles, 13k elevation) . 

I didn’t do any of the challenges I mentioned last year like a Everesting or vEveresting (bike) challenge, nor the marathon on the concept ii rower. I really need to make a list of these ideas and knock them out one at a time. Other adventures I need to get serious about are The Quad (4 state AT challenge), SCAR, etc. And I’ve actually never ridden a century on the bike! All things to think about in 2024 and beyond.

(*) I reserve the right to run Uwharrie again if some special reason arises!

Here come the normal graphs I track…. 

First up, elevation. So I’ve still not hit 365k in a year, and think that’s going to be tough until we live I the mountains some day! But it was still a good year at 308k (Strava graph further down shows 311k?). (I still think 2021 may have some elevation that shouldn’t be in there — Garmin DH mountain bike tracking counting the chairlift rides up, for example??)

Next up is total time… I always put in 550, not really sure why. 500 should be the goal, which I hit this year. :-)

Running – goal was 1000 and surprisingly I hit it!

Barely:

Riding – pretty low:

Strength training, was again a focus, and will remain so. Last year I had created some strength bench marks to shoot towards, and to be honest, I actually lost some strength. The way the year worked out with all the running races made it hard to make big gains in the gym. But I still spent a lot of time there and feel healthier for it!

And a few from Strava. This shows a pretty even split, I’d like to see biking increase a little.

And this shows the numbers here don’t line up exactly with the ones above, but they are pretty close:

Fairly even distribution on climbing, but the summer months when at the coast or Puerto Rico hurt!

This one is funny – it shows top 1% which I thought was impressive. But then I saw someone else post a 1% — yet she had nearly 3 times as many hours tracked as I did! So there are some real outliers in that top 1%

And that’s a wrap. I probably need to change the goals to time based (other than elevation), or just delete some of them and focus on the big two — total time and total elevation. Otherwise I sometimes track to those more than I should.

Plans this year – SMR relay run in April as an ultra (6-man team) and Barkley Fall Classic is it right now as far as races, but there are other things under consideration that may pop up. Just nothing that can be announced yet. :-)

Hellgate 100K++ 2023

Ah, Hellgate…. I’ve only run it twice now, but it has become as dear to me as Uhwarrie 40 and Barkley Fall Classic. Such a hard course — starts a at midnight and then 66.6 miles and ~13,000′ of elevation change over single track and forrest road (grass, gravel, rock), finishing at Camp Bethel. 

2021 report

I missed it last year — my application didn’t make it past the “race committee” (e.g. Dr. David Horton himself). Either my credentials weren’t up to snuff, or what I’m guessing (hoping!) – my attempt to send an electronic copy in from Greece via email didn’t meet the race’s old school method of snail mailing in an application once it’s posted to the Internet in early to mid October. I was in Greece celebrating my Dad’s 80th when the application was posted, so couldn’t print it and mail it. I tried to edit the RTF file (!!) on my phone, and formatting looked terrible. But I didn’t have much choice.

Anyway, I was able to get in this year and was excited to give it another shot. In 2021, I kind of fell apart after mile 45 or so with a tweaked knee and incredibly sore feet, so much so that I had to limp in much of the last 12-15 miles.

Kelly and I drove up in the van, scouted Aid Station (AS 5) in the daylight so she would know where to go (to sleep after the race start), grabbed some food at a little mountain cafe, and went to registration check-in and the pre race meeting at Camp Bethel. Horton is a hoot and the meetings are a ton of fun with a lot of laughs, yet the important messages are not lost in that fun atmosphere. After the briefing wrapped up around 8:30 or 8:45 pm, we opted to head right to the start rather than wait for the caravan to leave at 10:50. We arrived and a I spent a little time packing my gear, and then tried to rest. Rest never came so around 10:50 I got up, made coffee, and started getting dressed. Checked in with Horton at 11:40 or so, then waited for the 12:01 start.

The race went better this year than 2 years ago. I felt so much stronger and would have expected my times to be even better than they were, but I’m not complaining. The only real issue I had this time is temperature regulation. Starting at midnight, and running in the mountains up and down from elevations of 1500-2000′ difference means you will get some temperature swings, but it felt like it could have been a little more than that. There were points where I felt clammy running downhill if I ran moderate for more than 8-10 minutes. Daylight came, I met Kelly at AS 5 (mile 31 or so), changed clothes, and the clamminess never really came back.

While there are 9 AS’s I only have times for when Kelly met me and wrote them down, but it’s a good comparison of 2021. vs 2022. Note these are the “official” mile markers but everyone knows they are off and the total distance is much closer to 66 than 62… My times are in:out.

ASMilageHorton TimeMy 2021 time2022 time
1 – FSR353.512:45 am
2 – Petities Gap7.51:37 am
3 – Camping Gap13.13:13 am
4 – Floyd’s Field22.45:38 am
5 – Jennings Creek27.67:00 am7:06 – 7:206:59 – 7:09
6 – Little Cove Mountain34.58:33 am
7 – Bearwallow Gap42.510:30 amx – 11:1611:04 – 11:05
8 – Bobblets Gap49.512:00 1:00 – 1:0412:48 – 12:51
9 – Day Creek56.113:36 x – 14:3214:51 – 14:54
10 – Finish62.414:45 16:4916:15

While the times improved steadily, the biggest difference here is the time from AS 9 to the finish. This year I was actually able to run down the last 3.5 miles, whereas in 2021 I had to shuffle as any uneven ground really hurt the knee.

That was good for 80th out of 120 finishers (145 starters) and 8th out of 15 (16 starters) in the grandmasters. I certainly don’t stack up in the results like I did 6+ years ago, but I’m going to blame that on running 20 miles per week (instead of 40-50), and carrying more muscle around. I probably train the same, if not more, in total hours, but I bike and lift a lot more than I did back then. Age is of course a factor too, I just don’t think it’s as big a factor as training changes. But maybe I’m kidding myself. :-)

Photos all from Kelly as I never got my phone out… In fact I didn’t even listen to the playlist I made until the last big climb!

A few screen shots from Strava data. For the HR, that was my Whoop (on my wrist) broadcasting to my Coros, not a chest strap. But looking at it, I would think fairly accurate. (In reality I felt like I was red lining a lot, but know that wouldn’t have been possible…)

That last one shows I definitely slowed in the last quarter of the race I little more than I would have liked — about 30 minutes slower than the 1st quarter. I do feel like my 1st mile or two was probably a little fast, but it felt pretty good so I went with it.

Barkley Fall Classic 2023

This race has come to mean so much to me.

It’s my favorite race — by far.

It is the most difficult race I do — by far.

Why do I do hard things? My thinking on this has evolved over time, but being a student of the Big Barkley (and BFC is what I call little Barkley), I have better insight now. Big Barkley is arguably one of the most difficult athletic events in the world – out of more than 1000 starters over the race’s 30+ years in existence, there have been just 21 finishes by 17 different runners. I highly recommend the book “The Finishers: The Barkley Marathons,” for any one who wants to dig into the psyche of those who have tackled this course (which gets harder every time there is a finisher) and beaten it….

Final prep at the camp site — camp site 2 in Big Cove.
My bike at the start — I again rode from my campsite to the start to avoid the parking crowd.

So back to why do I do hard things? Everyone reading this leads a life of relative comfort. How often do you either voluntarily or forcefully get taken outside of your comfort zone — to somewhere really dark and difficult? Probably quite rarely. On the one hand it’s a little silly to leave comfort, but then, rather than a life of quiet desperation, aren’t we all leading lives of banal/mundane complacency? And is that better — or worse? For me, getting out the door and doing really hard things is a big part of the joy I find in life. (And yes, I find joy in the little mundane things of life just as much!)

Beyond that, I have yet to sign up for a race that truly scares me, or one that I truly have a slim chance of finiishing. Ok, the elevation at Leadville scared me, as I had never run that high for that long before — but I finished. The weather at Pinhote was brutal — over half the field dropped due to hypothermia — but I finished.

Now, (spoiler) I’m 5 for 5 for the 50k finish at BFC, but this race still challenges me like no other. Every year it’s something different that makes it hard — though last year I really crushed it (and after this year I am more certain that was fluke!). Year 1, I cramped in my toes two hours in and the cramps slowly worked their way up my body hitting muscles I didn’t even know I had. Year 2, I was vastly undertrained as I had not run a single step for nearly 6 months at the start of the year. Year 3 was the Covid year, so there were all kinds of restrictions placed on the race — incredible Laz was able to make it happen. Year 4 – I crushed it. What would year 5 hold?

Quiet contemplation at the start of the race.

What challenged me this year? Man, this one is hard. My dad passed away 12 days before the race. I wasn’t even sure I’d make it to the start line. I did, but being so close to his passing, and my 1st big event after his passing, it was tough. For those that don’t know, my dad was an accomplished endurance athlete himself, as outlined in this article written in 2012 after he competed in Kona, in the Ironman World Championship:

Local executive Paul Butler completes Kona Ironman at age 70

And Dad was one of my biggest fans. Always cheering me on, commenting on the blog, etc.

The grieving process is weird. You go through an emotional roller coaster, and sometimes the dark valleys hit at the strangest times. For me, the 1st five hours of BFC was like that. I’m out there running my race, and grief hit. I’m thinking about my dad, and his life, and his athletic career, and my relationship with him, and my relationship with my family, and on and on. My mind was not on the race, and that is a really difficult place to be in such a difficult event — an event that truly takes mental engagement the whole time.

This year’s course entailed 5 loops, and at 1st glance it appeared easier (shorter and less climb) than last year. But each loop escalated in difficulty, and last year’s hardest section/loop, was moved later in the race, making it that much more difficult.

Mentally and emotionally I was ok (not good, just ok) on loop one and part of loop two:

Some shots from loop two:

But somewhere on loop two, things went sideways. First, my right ankle was on fire — I thought ants somehow got on me and were biting me but the stinging would not go away no matter how many times I swatted at it or rubbed it. I finally stopped to check on it, and there was a bee stuck in the sock that had kept sting me. Ugh. But later, on one of the last climbs, the emotion of Dad’s passing really hit. And on Quitter’s Road, a three to four mile section I should have been running, I was crying and walking — walking a lot more than is good for a shot at a finish.

I want to thank the runners that became my therapists on the trail — not just on Quitter’s Road, but at several stages on the course as well as the finish line. Just having someone to talk to at my low moments was a huge gift, and all of you provided kind words and an emotional lift when I really needed it..

Loop three was Chimney, which is typically my mental half way point, no matter where on the course it is. The false summits can be really demoralizing, and the climb just takes a lot out of you. Whatever happened to switchbacks? Parts of the trail literally go straight up the mountain. Somehow, as I climbed Chimney, I climbed out of my mental funk. My dad was an endurance athlete, he was a big fan of what I do, he would have wanted me “out there” on this day. And while I climbed out of my funk, I climbed into the fog. But at the summit and the long ridge that leads to the loop four, I finally started to feel better – like I could give this race the physical exertion it needs.

And then loop four came — and loop four is what the race is famous for. It’s a little insane, and I won’t describe it here again – you can read my previous race reports. Just know that the names Rat Jaw, Meth Lab, and Testicle Spectacle strike fear into the heart of many a runner. This out and back section is just a few miles, but it’s a few miles of insane off-trail climbs and descents, often bushwhacking through saw briers, sliding down scree, or scrambling up insane pitches.

Last year, descending Rat I got stuck behind a slow moving group, but this year I was farther back in the field and it was a lot more open (still a fair bit of bushwhacking, though enough runners had been through to make a little bit of a path) . I made good time but did get passed a couple times (which was a little disappointing – I had set a goal to not let anyone get by!).

Down Rat, through the tunnel, over the Prison wall, and run to Meth. Meth is hard to describe but at one place you look at where you are supposed to go, and it looks like wall. And the wall is when the rain hit — hard. I knew this was going to make the next few miles extremely difficult. There are literally 70% pitches that would be mud slides down, and brutal up.

Climbing meth — about the time the rain came in

Coming up Testicle I grabbed a stick to use to stab the ground and try to pull myself up, and on the downs, it became a self arresting “axe” — if you start sliding down, stab it in the ground and hope it stops you. I didn’t work out that well, but I held on to it as you can see below.

Down meth…

Rat was insane, up and down. I grabbed this shot from FB, not sure whose it was or I’d give credit. But I have to include it here as it captures the absurdity of it all.

Poor guy got his foot stuck

The climb up Rat probably took me at least 90 minutes and really took a lot out of me physically. There were times I’d climb 5-10 feet, and slide back down. You’d have to catch the fall, reassess, and try a new route. It was best to stay out of the mud and in the briers, but that meant you were semi-bushwhacking all the way up. For comparison, I typically climb Rat in an hour or just over. (Though in the covid year, in the cool temps with low humidity, I climbed in ~45 minutes.)

From Rat it was a 4 mile run down a typical Frozen Head trail — meaning rocky and rooty. At this point I knew I had a 50k finish in the bag, and I still wasn’t feeling it. So I set a goal to only get passed five times — and that’s what happened. Down the trail, on the road for a minute, through the woods, across a stream (which due to the rain was now nearly up to my waist, which did wash a lot of the mud off), and to the finish.

What a day!

I crossed in 12:14:48 for 78th place — last year was 12:02:57 for 28th place (a fluke!)… Out of ~400 starters, there were 135 50k finishers (~35% finish rate which is inline with historical rates). Ultra-signup is not showing the marathon finishers now, but I think it was about 80 more. So roughly 45-50% of the field did not get a marathon or 50k.

I am very happy to have achieved another 50k finish.

I can’t find my number from year 1. Note how my numbers keep getting lower — the more 50k finishes you have, the lower the number you get.

Thanks to Jenny and Misty the photographers — they do a great job, and conditions were awful this year. Misty was just above the wall on Meth in a tent, stepping out in the pouring rain to take photos whenever a runner came by.

Misty Dawns

Jennifer Thorsen

And of course thank you to all the volunteers that make this race and so many others possible. As well as Laz, Durb, Bad Mike, who put it all together.

And Dad, here’s to a life well-lived.

Grand Canyon Run

We started planning a Rim 2 Rim 2 Rim run many many months before the targeted date of April 18, 2023. But over the winter, we watched reports of serious snowfall, and worse, rock slides on the North Kaibab trail. A few in our original group decided not to go, but five us forged on. We had planned to go as far as we felt reasonably safe, and then turn around. There were reports of several runners making it al the way, but many more reports of people turning around. How far would we get? But then a few days before we flew out, the National Park Services closed the North Kaibab trail, and our hopes for a full R2R2R were finally off the table.

We opted to come up with an alternate route, including side trips to a few places we would have missed such as Plateau Point and Ribbon falls….. Route chosen was down Bright Angel to Plateau Point for sunrise, then back to Bright Angel continuing down to the river, crossing, hitting Phantom Ranch, and heading north until the trail was closed at Cottonwood. About a half mile short of Cottonwood there was a stream crossing that a few of the guys decided not to do, so we turned back. Then there was a major stream crossing to get to Ribbon Falls, which I had actually decided not to do, but then saw Hans on the other side, so across 2 of us went, while 2 more headed back to Phantom. The video makes this crossing look really sketchy, and maybe it was — but it was also relatively safe in that if you did slip and fall, you’d end up hitting the shore in short order without the chance of too much damage done. Ribbon was really worth it as you can see in the video. Then it was up South Kaibab, and 3 of us ran the rim trail back to Bright Angel, while 2 took the shuttle back.

I ended up with ~40 miles and ~8500′ of elevation.

I made a video include that here in lieu of photos….

A few more details….

  • Kelly and I flew out and met our friend Beth at the Airport. Riley and Casey also made the trip, with a slightly different itinerary.
  • But we saw them the 1st night at a great restaurant in Sedona, Javelina Cafe.
  • Met up with the guys, some for the 1st time, hung out in the canyon, etc.
  • Saturday I did a 6 mile hike down Bright Angel, partially scouting the trail to see if there was enough snow/ice to warrant spikes — there wasn’t.
  • Sunday I was up at 3:50, to get ready for our 4:30 a.m. start. The 1st issue was that our little hotel fridge had frozen my hard boiled eggs, and after one bite, I decided I would just put them in my pack and eat them later!
  • Riley and Casey had planned on just hiking to Bright Angel to Plateau Point, but when they were there by 9 a.m., and didn’t know what they’d do the rest of the day, they headed on to Phantom Ranch and up South Kaibab, turning a 12 mile day into a 22 mile day! I was shocked to hear Riley calling “Dad, Dad…” when I came in to Phantom Ranch from the north side!
  • Kelly and Beth planned on down South Kaibab, Phantom Ranch, and up Bright Angel, which they did, though they were both suffering at the end. I had finished up my run and could see them on Life360 not too far down, so decided to run down and hike up with them. While Kelly was surprised to see me, she was grateful I had a handful of potato chip crumbs leftover, just enough to give she and Beth the last bit of energy needed to finish.
  • I do hope to go back and run the full rim to rim to rim someday, as well as go back and backpack – it would be great to stay in the bottom of the canyon a couple nights someday.
  • And finally, I re-read this book leading up to, during, and after the trip. One of the all time great adventure books. And it reinforces my desire to some day take a wooden dory down the Canyon. With a guide, of course!

Ok, maybe a small photo gallery after all. Order is reversed — oh well!

2023 Mount Mitchell Heartbreaker 50-miler

Here it is almost 2 months later, so I better write something before I forget it all. This race was three weeks after the Mount Mitchell Challenge 40 miler, and I as I wrote there I was a little disappointed there was so much pavement in that one. So when I heard about this race and saw that it was almost entirely on trail, I signed up — even though it was so soon after the challenge! But I basically ran 5-10 miles per week at most in between, and felt recovered enough.

Tanawha Adventures puts on great races with great course, and this was no exception. The start and finish was at Camp Grier in Old Fort, and I was able to park the van the night before the race, and stay there again the night of the race. There was also great food the night before and at the finish line.

Because it’s been two months, bullet points:

  • Got sick two nights before, finally catching the crud that had been in the house the week prior, which I thought I had avoided. Still decided to drive up with the hope that I would feel better race day
  • Slept horribly due to illness, but still decided to start the race, to see how it goes
  • For the 1st couple miles, really thought I should turn around. But there was an option to drop from 50 miles to 55k at mile 15 (or was it 20?), so I thought I’d give that a go. (There was always the chance to drop at an aid station prior to that decision point, if it came to that.)
  • Eventually I reached a point where I didn’t feel awful, though I never felt great, nor even good. But I was trudging along making steady progress, albeit slowly.
  • The course was really hard — some gnarly technical trails with rocks and roots, some steep inclines and declines, and 3 massive climbs.
  • While the official race info stated 12,000 of climb, my GPS ended up at over 14k! I think that was likely a little high, but it wasn’t too far off.
  • I finally trudged in at 14 hours, 22 minutes, about 2 hours longer than I thought it would take. I attribute a lot of that to not feeling very well, though some was certainly due to the difficulty of the course.
  • And now just some photos:
    • (You may not be able to tell, but it poured in those 1st 3 images!)

Oh, and here’s a relive video:

2023 Mount Mitchell Challenge

This race has been on my bucket list since I ran the marathon back in early 2000’s (maybe 2002 or 2003?). I had either never gotten in via the lottery, or missed it due to Uwharrie being so close, or opted to do the Florida Sea 2 Sea 72 hour adventure race, which is often the same weekend. This year, they changed the lottery process so that everyone starts the marathon, and the 1st 250 runners that get to the marathon turn around point in time, can keep going.

The race was late February and I’m writing this in early April, so just bullet points:

  • I stayed in a boutique type hotel called The Monte Vista, which seemed quite nice. But unfortunately my room had an HVAC system right out side my 2nd story window that was acting up, starting and restarting, every few seconds, that kept me awake for a while. My room was also close enough to the open stairway leading down the lobby, bar, and restaurant, so it was quite noisy. Not good when you are trying to go to sleep early.
  • I woke up quite early with my bowels in serious distress. :-(. Luckily I had immodium and had to take several to calm things down. I don’t know if it was the Thai food the night before, or something else, but it was not a good start to the day! Luckily, the issue passed by the time l left my room around 6:45. (It was a very short walk to the start line!)
  • The race started and we headed slightly up on the paved roads to Montreat, before hitting trail around mile 3. I was taking it easy as I had no intentions of pushing having just run Uwharrie 40 miler 3 weeks prior. Nothing exciting here, other than it’s up up up.
  • About 2 hours and 50 minutes in, I hear a lady say something about “a race to the cut-off.” That was odd, I thought we had 4 hours to get to mile 14, not 3! We were a mile out, so I actually did have to push a little to make it in time. Got there in a group of 4 or 5 stragglers at 2:59! I would have been so upset if I had missed it — I had only come to run the Challenge not the Marathon!
  • Anyway, from there we headed out on the Blue Ridge Parkway for a bit, and then up the road to the summit. This is all paved, it’s raining a lot, and I thought we were supposed to take the trail to the summit. When I got to the trail, there were no race flags, so now what? I waited a couple minutes for runners behind me, and they didn’t know either. I decided to keep heading up the road. A few minutes later, the lead runners came flying down, and I asked them — they said pavement all the way! What!! I am not a roadie, and this was going to be 12 miles up and down to the summit and back to the trail that leads to town. All in all, of the 37-38 miles in the race, nearly 20 are pavement! (Race description says 40 miles but may Coros, which is usually very accurate, read 37 miles.)
  • The climb up was brutal weather. Cold, rainy, and windy. On the way down, my hands got really cold, but I knew I just had to keep moving, get to lower elevation, and I’d be fine.
  • The downs on the trail here are brutal — just lots of loose softball size rocks the whole way, so it can be slow going.
  • While I was in the last 4-5 runners to make the cut-off, I passed a lot of people from there on, and ended up 49th out of 72 finishers, in 7 hrs and 34 minutes. There were 170 finishers in the marathon. Many of those were there for the marathon, but some were there for the Challenge and didn’t make the cut off.
  • I ate a couple of hotdogs at the finish line, but walked back to the van, still parked at the hotel, toweled off, and went to My Father’s Pizza where I had a big GF Meat Lovers Pizza, a beer, and ordered the carrot cake to go. Drove the 3 hours home…

Uwharrie 2023

I missed Uwharrie in 2022 — dropped out the week before. I had COVID about two weeks out, and while I was feeling fairly recovered, I didn’t think it would be wise to push my body that hard… But I was bummed not to get that 10th finish. And while I was lacking motivation this year when sign up came around, I really wanted that 10th mug! So I signed up and did the training… Well, enough training to get by.

I won’t write much, just update the table:

YearTimePlace1st 202nd 20
2010 7:57 (short course) 30/71
2011 8:50:22 30/88
2012 7:57:17 27/148
2013 8:49:06 33/90
 20158:05:07 17/883:49:134:14:32
 20167:31:30 7/1013:33:423:57:48
 20177:43:54 9/943:29:044:14:18
201820 miler….11/1903:25:37
2019Volunteer!
20208:10:019/733:46:304:22:07
20217:56:177/543:52:xx4:04:xx
20238:56:2322/784:11::004:42:42

I admit I’m a little disappointed in that 2nd 20… Thought I would have held up a bit more. But then again, my current training is 20 mpw (avg over the year, but with some bigger weeks before an ultra like this), so not sure I should have those expectations.

What I have found is that in a race like this, that I have run so many times, it is impossible not to compare my current self to my past self. How much of the slow down is due to age, how much due to how my training has changed, or how much is it something else?

I’m sure it’s a combination…. I know I shouldn’t compare, but it’s not in my nature not to.

(I would note that my total training time per week is likely the same, if not a little more now, but instead of running 40+ mpw, I’ve added a lot of time on the bike, and a lot more time in the gym. I think I’m probably healthier overall, and my current training is more geared towards health span than performance. But I’d still like to perform well!)

Morning after coffee… I now have 11 of the big mugs (volunteered one year), and 1 medium size mug (the one year I ran the 20).