Barkley Fall Classic 2023

This race has come to mean so much to me.

It’s my favorite race — by far.

It is the most difficult race I do — by far.

Why do I do hard things? My thinking on this has evolved over time, but being a student of the Big Barkley (and BFC is what I call little Barkley), I have better insight now. Big Barkley is arguably one of the most difficult athletic events in the world – out of more than 1000 starters over the race’s 30+ years in existence, there have been just 21 finishes by 17 different runners. I highly recommend the book “The Finishers: The Barkley Marathons,” for any one who wants to dig into the psyche of those who have tackled this course (which gets harder every time there is a finisher) and beaten it….

Final prep at the camp site — camp site 2 in Big Cove.
My bike at the start — I again rode from my campsite to the start to avoid the parking crowd.

So back to why do I do hard things? Everyone reading this leads a life of relative comfort. How often do you either voluntarily or forcefully get taken outside of your comfort zone — to somewhere really dark and difficult? Probably quite rarely. On the one hand it’s a little silly to leave comfort, but then, rather than a life of quiet desperation, aren’t we all leading lives of banal/mundane complacency? And is that better — or worse? For me, getting out the door and doing really hard things is a big part of the joy I find in life. (And yes, I find joy in the little mundane things of life just as much!)

Beyond that, I have yet to sign up for a race that truly scares me, or one that I truly have a slim chance of finiishing. Ok, the elevation at Leadville scared me, as I had never run that high for that long before — but I finished. The weather at Pinhote was brutal — over half the field dropped due to hypothermia — but I finished.

Now, (spoiler) I’m 5 for 5 for the 50k finish at BFC, but this race still challenges me like no other. Every year it’s something different that makes it hard — though last year I really crushed it (and after this year I am more certain that was fluke!). Year 1, I cramped in my toes two hours in and the cramps slowly worked their way up my body hitting muscles I didn’t even know I had. Year 2, I was vastly undertrained as I had not run a single step for nearly 6 months at the start of the year. Year 3 was the Covid year, so there were all kinds of restrictions placed on the race — incredible Laz was able to make it happen. Year 4 – I crushed it. What would year 5 hold?

Quiet contemplation at the start of the race.

What challenged me this year? Man, this one is hard. My dad passed away 12 days before the race. I wasn’t even sure I’d make it to the start line. I did, but being so close to his passing, and my 1st big event after his passing, it was tough. For those that don’t know, my dad was an accomplished endurance athlete himself, as outlined in this article written in 2012 after he competed in Kona, in the Ironman World Championship:

Local executive Paul Butler completes Kona Ironman at age 70

And Dad was one of my biggest fans. Always cheering me on, commenting on the blog, etc.

The grieving process is weird. You go through an emotional roller coaster, and sometimes the dark valleys hit at the strangest times. For me, the 1st five hours of BFC was like that. I’m out there running my race, and grief hit. I’m thinking about my dad, and his life, and his athletic career, and my relationship with him, and my relationship with my family, and on and on. My mind was not on the race, and that is a really difficult place to be in such a difficult event — an event that truly takes mental engagement the whole time.

This year’s course entailed 5 loops, and at 1st glance it appeared easier (shorter and less climb) than last year. But each loop escalated in difficulty, and last year’s hardest section/loop, was moved later in the race, making it that much more difficult.

Mentally and emotionally I was ok (not good, just ok) on loop one and part of loop two:

Some shots from loop two:

But somewhere on loop two, things went sideways. First, my right ankle was on fire — I thought ants somehow got on me and were biting me but the stinging would not go away no matter how many times I swatted at it or rubbed it. I finally stopped to check on it, and there was a bee stuck in the sock that had kept sting me. Ugh. But later, on one of the last climbs, the emotion of Dad’s passing really hit. And on Quitter’s Road, a three to four mile section I should have been running, I was crying and walking — walking a lot more than is good for a shot at a finish.

I want to thank the runners that became my therapists on the trail — not just on Quitter’s Road, but at several stages on the course as well as the finish line. Just having someone to talk to at my low moments was a huge gift, and all of you provided kind words and an emotional lift when I really needed it..

Loop three was Chimney, which is typically my mental half way point, no matter where on the course it is. The false summits can be really demoralizing, and the climb just takes a lot out of you. Whatever happened to switchbacks? Parts of the trail literally go straight up the mountain. Somehow, as I climbed Chimney, I climbed out of my mental funk. My dad was an endurance athlete, he was a big fan of what I do, he would have wanted me “out there” on this day. And while I climbed out of my funk, I climbed into the fog. But at the summit and the long ridge that leads to the loop four, I finally started to feel better – like I could give this race the physical exertion it needs.

And then loop four came — and loop four is what the race is famous for. It’s a little insane, and I won’t describe it here again – you can read my previous race reports. Just know that the names Rat Jaw, Meth Lab, and Testicle Spectacle strike fear into the heart of many a runner. This out and back section is just a few miles, but it’s a few miles of insane off-trail climbs and descents, often bushwhacking through saw briers, sliding down scree, or scrambling up insane pitches.

Last year, descending Rat I got stuck behind a slow moving group, but this year I was farther back in the field and it was a lot more open (still a fair bit of bushwhacking, though enough runners had been through to make a little bit of a path) . I made good time but did get passed a couple times (which was a little disappointing – I had set a goal to not let anyone get by!).

Down Rat, through the tunnel, over the Prison wall, and run to Meth. Meth is hard to describe but at one place you look at where you are supposed to go, and it looks like wall. And the wall is when the rain hit — hard. I knew this was going to make the next few miles extremely difficult. There are literally 70% pitches that would be mud slides down, and brutal up.

Climbing meth — about the time the rain came in

Coming up Testicle I grabbed a stick to use to stab the ground and try to pull myself up, and on the downs, it became a self arresting “axe” — if you start sliding down, stab it in the ground and hope it stops you. I didn’t work out that well, but I held on to it as you can see below.

Down meth…

Rat was insane, up and down. I grabbed this shot from FB, not sure whose it was or I’d give credit. But I have to include it here as it captures the absurdity of it all.

Poor guy got his foot stuck

The climb up Rat probably took me at least 90 minutes and really took a lot out of me physically. There were times I’d climb 5-10 feet, and slide back down. You’d have to catch the fall, reassess, and try a new route. It was best to stay out of the mud and in the briers, but that meant you were semi-bushwhacking all the way up. For comparison, I typically climb Rat in an hour or just over. (Though in the covid year, in the cool temps with low humidity, I climbed in ~45 minutes.)

From Rat it was a 4 mile run down a typical Frozen Head trail — meaning rocky and rooty. At this point I knew I had a 50k finish in the bag, and I still wasn’t feeling it. So I set a goal to only get passed five times — and that’s what happened. Down the trail, on the road for a minute, through the woods, across a stream (which due to the rain was now nearly up to my waist, which did wash a lot of the mud off), and to the finish.

What a day!

I crossed in 12:14:48 for 78th place — last year was 12:02:57 for 28th place (a fluke!)… Out of ~400 starters, there were 135 50k finishers (~35% finish rate which is inline with historical rates). Ultra-signup is not showing the marathon finishers now, but I think it was about 80 more. So roughly 45-50% of the field did not get a marathon or 50k.

I am very happy to have achieved another 50k finish.

I can’t find my number from year 1. Note how my numbers keep getting lower — the more 50k finishes you have, the lower the number you get.

Thanks to Jenny and Misty the photographers — they do a great job, and conditions were awful this year. Misty was just above the wall on Meth in a tent, stepping out in the pouring rain to take photos whenever a runner came by.

Misty Dawns

Jennifer Thorsen

And of course thank you to all the volunteers that make this race and so many others possible. As well as Laz, Durb, Bad Mike, who put it all together.

And Dad, here’s to a life well-lived.

2022 Florida Sea 2 Sea adventure race

Writing this nearly 7 months after the fact…. Will keep it short.

After a ~15 year hiatus, I went back to Florida in 2021 for the Sea 2 Sea 72 hour expedition race. That ended tragically, so I went back in 2022 with Will and Ryan for another go.

We finished in 73 hours with something like 58 controls, which isn’t bad but not great. Our only real complaint about this race is the maps — sometimes there’s just so little accuracy, finding a control becomes an “Easter egg hunt.” You know you are in the general vicinity, but you could be 100m away, so we walk all around trying to find it. And it’s just a bit of luck sometimes, or perseverance…

The biggest leg this year was a 45 mile paddle that we started at nearly 11 p.m. on the 2nd night. Going in to the second night, with no sleep on night 1, on the water, is always hard, and a few hours in, we had to find somewhere to rest. We were all falling asleep while trying to paddle! But we are on a river in FL, which is often swamp like. I finally gave in and said let’s just pull over, I’ll sleep on the driest land I can find while you two sleep in the boat… We pull over at what I think is a good spot, and right where I would have laid down was a 4′ gator! That got the adrenaline going a bit and we were able to muster the energy to continue on until we found a “landing” — some sandy beach where we saw a few other S2S boats pulled over. Turns out we had found the beach for a camp ground.

I was so tired I got out and laid right down on the sand. We had one bivy for emergency use, so I put my big black plastic trash bag on my lower body, and put a fleece up top, and fell right asleep. It was low 50’s and after I while I was so cold, I couldn’t stand it. But I was so tired, I didn’t want to get up. I really wanted to wake up to a new reality. It’s the only time I can recall having that feeling — that I just wanted to wake up to something completely different.

I had just read Victor Frankel’s “Man’s Search for Meaning,” and I here I am, a little cold doing something I chose to do “suffering.” But he and millions of others suffered for years in much worse conditions. How could I complain?

After about 3 miserable hours I got up, found the camp rest room, and then wandered a bit trying to find Will and Ryan, which took a while. I finally found them, woke them up and said we had to keep moving, I was too cold to be here any longer.

That’s the one story I’ll share from the race, but Kristen did put this little video together which does capture some great aspects of AR.

2021 Hellgate 100k++

I used to be very good about writing race reports, but not so much these days. So this is only 4 months late, and won’t have much detail.

But with that said, I will write a little… Some of you know I had sort of lost interest in most races, and this was before covid even started. I’m not sure why I lost interest, but traditional races like WS100 or UTMB that I once had on my bucket list, no longer called to me. Maybe it’s temporary, maybe not. What did interest me were crazier races and events, such as Barkley Fall Classic, Rogaines (24 hour orienteering events), and “projects” — self supported efforts like the Linville Gorge grand loop, SCAR, the Quad, etc.

But one day late September, Hellgate suddenly popped into my head… Not sure why, but I thought that would be “fun.” I figured it would be sold out, but a quick search found that it is application based and I had a week until applications were due around the 1st of October, so I waited for the application to be published, filled it out, and waited to hear something.

Funny thing — I received the following text from David Horton, legendary ultra runner, Barkley Finisher, and the RD:

Guess he couldn’t read my writing on the app! I responded with:

“woohoo! That’s exciting! And Terrifying!”

So now my current training philosophy would be put to the test — I want to be able to jump in to *any* *event* (running, biking, hiking – anything!) with just 2 months notice. With minimal run training (10-15 mpw), now I suddenly had two weeks to get ready to run 66.6 miles with 13,000′ of climb.

Quick report: Felt really good until about mile 45, then there was the “forever section” which was rocks and roots, all covered by a thick layer of leaves. I think that strained my R knee, which began to really hurt around mile 55, where I was reduced to a shuffle. And my feet started to fall apart. I went from being close to a “Horton Time” of 15 hours, to a finish in 16 hour 49 minutes. But now I want another shot, to have a good run here! Lack of run volume really caught up to me after mile 45…

And some photos:

37,000 feet

Putting this out there — maybe the public notice will get me motivated.

I set a goal this year to climb 365,000′, across all disciplines – running, hiking, trekking, biking, including virtual runs/rides (treadmill / trainer), and while I started the year well, I have fallen way behind.

Almost 37,000 feet behind! Or roughly 1300′ per day.

Limitless Vertical Challenge

With COVID-19 cancelling most races, there are a lot of virtual races / challenges popping up. I opted to do the Great Virtual Run Across Tennessee (1000+km from May 1 to Aug 31), mostly to just keep me getting out the door. But when I saw the Limitless Vertical Challenge, I knew right away I wanted to give 29,029ā€™ (in a week) a shot. I also opted to do it all outdoors, which would be more even more difficult. (Of course I’m not taking anything away from those that did their challenges on a treadmill! That’s certainly no easy feat either!)

All six levels… I knew level 6 would not be possible staying strictly outdoors! At least not for me.

Memorial Day came and I got some good hills in both near the 7D home as well as in Linville Gorge with Kelly and Reece. The next few days I stayed a little closer to home and focused on hill repeats. Once I thought 29,029 was in the bag, I opted to go longer ā€” 20 mile days on the AT ā€” so I could go back to parts of the AT Iā€™d not seen in a while.

Hereā€™s the daily elevation gains per Strava.

I ended up with 31,280ā€™ covered in a little under 30 hours, but over 97 miles! Of course, a lot of that was power hiking due to the grade, but there was a fair bit of running too. To go from 20 mpw to 97 was a bit of a stretch, and I definitely felt a bit worn out for a few days.

Below is a gallery of photos from the week…

Tetons Day 6: Paintbrush Canyon

After a warm night in a hotel, we both got in short runs, and then had great breakfast at the Trapper Grill. Ā We then headed up into Paintbrush Canyon, the canyon we had had permits to camp in the night before. Ā In the parking lot I saw a couple coming out with all the gear and talked to them about conditions they experienced, and it pretty much rained on them all afternoon, evening, and into the night. Ā So we felt justified that we had baled on our backpacking plans!

Paintbrush is a beautiful canyon. Ā  It’s hard to pick a favorite, but it would come down to Death or Paintbrush. Ā They were so different. Ā Death definitely felt more remote, and the waterfall up was amazing. Ā Paintbrush had amazing open views of valley lakes.

We hiked up about as far as we could go — large snow field blocked the way. Ā At that point, looking further into the canyon was like looking at winter, but all you had to do was turn around and see spring. Ā  We hiked back down a bit to an amazing camp site and set up our chairs, and cooked a hot lunch, and spoke to a few other backpackers that would be staying here this night.

When we got back to town we drove to The Bird, a burger joint about 10 minutes south of Jackson, that one of the local backpackers we had met coming out of Open Canyon had recommended. Ā  It had a fun atmosphere and was quite good.

 

A bit of what some of the stream crossings are like:

 

Screen Shot 2018-07-02 at 14.28.43.png

Haiti – travel day

Well, it’s finally here! All the training is behind me and the experience of Haiti is in front of me. I am so grateful for this opportunity! Thanks again to everyone for all of your support!

I stayed at the Tischer’s to avoid having Kelly have to drive me to the airport at 4 a.m. Jase and I were up and out the door by 4:20. There were no problems with security and the flight to Miami was smooth.

I read the following card from Kelly when we arrived. I am blessed with an amazing wife who loves me, gets me, and is always there for me.

In Miami we met a lot of the runners at the gate for the flight to Cap Haitian:

I was upgraded so had a decent lunch on the flight, and was the first one through immigration. I acted like I knew what I was doing so was outside pretty quickly. Then I was approached by many taxi drivers asking if I needed a ride. After a bit, others started trickling out and we met the RAH crew.

Here’s the bus we took to the hotel. There were also several pick up trucks to carry bags!

Bus selfie:

The bus ride over to the hotel was a little crazy. I was instantly struck by the trash — it’s literally everywhere! šŸ˜¦

The road was crazy. I struggled to get decent shots, but it was narrow, crowded, rutted and seemed a bit dangerous. But our driver was amazing!

The hotel is literally at the end of the road and is pretty nice.

Some of the gang went for a run. Not me!

Most of us did make a trek to an old fort…

After that we had a team meeting to go over logistics and safety, had dinner, and now it’s almost time for bed. We have a 4 a.m. wake up call and will be running by 5. 34 miles tomorrow finishing with a long climb up a mountain.

2017 East Coast Magical Mystery Tour Day 1

This year we won’t be heading to a national park out west šŸ˜¦ — Ā instead have quite the itinerary planned on the east coast with stops in DC, Pittsburg, girls to NYC and boys to DE, etc.

Day 1 had us drive to DC to the National Cathederal and then see U2 with our friends the Martins in seats next to us, and other friends from PBO and Chapel Hill in attendance but not directly with us.

Photos of the day below.

A golden opportunity to mention quantity missed?

The National Cathedral had damage in an earthquake a couple years back that they will be working of for quite some time.

Stained glass depicting NASA’s trip to the moon:

After the Cathedral we got a taste of DC traffic — about an hour to go just 13 miles to get to the hotel! Ā  We had a quick turn around to get a quick bite to eat and to the stadium for the show. Ā We got an Uber Black but on the way to dinner changed plans and had him drop us off at Chinese, and then walked to the stadium.

After ticket resolution, we finally made it in and got see the Lumineers play a couple songs!

U2 was pretty amazing, as always.

IMG_1073

 

 

Ankle update

Saw the Doctor this morning for my 20 day follow-up. Ā  Lot’s to digest so let me just bullet point it:
  • I was worried yesterday about the base of the 5th metatarsal, so that’s where he started.Ā  It was sore and in general the middle of the foot felt tight and inflamed.Ā  And the base of the metatarsal was sore to pressure.Ā  PT’s resonance test on it was fine, so it was unlikely to be a stress fracture, but I wanted the doc to check it out.Ā  He immediately ruled out stress fracture there, and just called it tarsometatarsal joint inflammation.
  • Main cause of that is not wearing the boot long enough, but worse (in his mind), I was wearing my Luna sandals.Ā  And that’s mostly what I’ve worn the past week or more, other than when on the bike trainer and I’ve put on my bike shoes (not clipless, just platform shoes).Ā  That includes all the walking around Carowinds on Friday, Saturday soccer game and errands, etc.Ā  I did have the brace on for the most part until Sunday afternoon when I stopped wearing it. Ā  And I walked barefoot around the house and on the treadmill when not in Luna’s.Ā  He just pointed out that with barefoot or sandals, the load on the tarsals is much higher, and right now, the foot needs less stress, not more.Ā  So he wants me in a shoe for a while. Ā  I’ve got on my bike shoe right now which is pretty stiff and shouldn’t allow much movement.
  • There is still lots of soreness all over – peroneal tendon, peroneal muscle, ATFL, calcaneousfibular ligament, anterior tibialis, etc.Ā  Some of those are likely due to lack of shoe per above above but some of course due to the original injury.
  • He said if it’s really sore, wear the boot. Ā (It’s not really sore, in my mind.) Ā He said the brace is really just for aversion and wouldn’t help much with where I am right now.
  • He mostly wants to see inflammation go down and recommends topical and oral NSAIDs, elevation, massage, maybe a bit of ice.
  • He wrote a prescription for Rayos, a delayed release prednisone, that he said I could take at night, to combat the body’s inflammation.Ā  I’m a bit torn, as I really don’t like taking things like steroids or NSAIDs unless I really have to. Ā I would take this at night, and the delayed release means it limits the body’s inflammation response which is greatest while sleeping. Ā I’ll have a think on this and read up on it before making a decision.
  • (I have been doing the topical NSAID 2x per day, but have limited oral NSAIDs unless it’s really bothersome.Ā  I have been taking minerva and using collagen in a shake to try to help with inflammation and speed up natural recovery.)
  • He didn’t say anything about when I could run, just listen to your body, and when there’s no pain, then I can do whatever.Ā  As there’s some pain / discomfort now, I’m certain he was implying don’t run yet, and don’t walk too much yet!Ā  At least not without a more supportive shoe.
  • He did say cycling was fine as long as it doesn’t cause additional pain/discomfort.Ā  I rode 85 miles last week and only feel that’s been a good thing, albeit starting to get boring. Ā (I’ve only ridden on the trainer, not outside!)
I’m still not too concerned with no running since I have no races until late August.Ā  But even then, I am in this for the long game and want to be running when I’m 70+.Ā  So making sure this heals properly now is key.Ā  I’m most concerned with the possibility of having chronic ankle sprains going forward.Ā  In all my many years of trail and off-trail running, while my ankles have rolled many times, they have never sprained!Ā  So ensuring strength and mobility in all the tendons, ligaments, and muscles, is most key to me right now.
Here are some photos over time:
Day 2:
IMG_0761
Day 3:
IMG_0765Day 7:IMG_0770
Day 13IMG_0783

2017 ATT Marathon

I added the ATT Marathon to my race calendar pretty late – about a month before the race itself. Ā I added it as a “training race” (or a ‘C’ race) to prepare for the MST 50k three weeks out. Ā I’ve been mostly doing single track hilly/mountainous ultras for a while and feel like I’ve lost some speed at a more road like run, and figured I’d be doing a long training run that weekend anyway, so why not?

I metĀ Sarah and David at Lowes in PBO at 5:30, and Sarah’s husband drove us over. Ā  The race states to arrive by 5:30 even if you have a parking pass to guarantee a spot, but we arrived closer to 6. Ā There were still no issues parking. Ā  It was a bit chilly (42F?) but I opted to leave the vest behind and just run with arm warmers, gloves, and a 200 weight icebreaker tee. Ā I also had a buff over my ears. Ā While it was a bit chilly walking to the start and checking in my post race bag, once in the starting corral it wasn’t bad — lots of heat with all the bodies!

My plan was to run out with Mark Manz who was to lead the 3:40 pace group for a mile or two or three, and then speed up and shoot for roughly an 8:00/mile pace avg. Ā  But I didn’t see Mark there so I thought I’d jump in with the 3:35 group. Ā David was up ahead in the 3:30 group. Ā About 2 miles in, the 3:35 group was only 10s behind the 3:30 group, so I felt like the pacing was off. Ā I had come up on David and ran with him for a few. Ā Once we turned on to the ATT, it’s a slight downhill, and I knew it was time to pick it up. Ā I passed the 3:35 group and quickly decided to pass the 3:30 group too — I didn’t like being behind a group.

So then I was in no man’s land… I watched the 3:25 group up ahead, but didn’t really close the gap much at all. Ā Looking at my watch, I figured they were more in the 3:22-3:23 range and was content to just run my race. Ā There’s not a lot to write about for the middle portion of the race. Ā It’s like a T, so you go north and turn around, then south and turn around, and then back to the “trunk” of the T and back to the start/finish. Ā The two turn arounds let me see the various pace groups and other runners a couple times.

I held steady until the south turn around and was really feeling good. Ā But I recalled from the 2014 race that I imploded from mile 23-25 or so, with the every so slight 1-2% grade really wearing me down. Ā This time I thought if I could just get over that climb averaging under 8:00 for each of those miles, I’d be pretty happy. Ā I ended up doing 7:40 or so and it didn’t feel hard at all.

At that point I really picked it up a notch, and finally felt like I was working. Ā But with just a couple miles to go, now was the time, C race or not. Ā I knew I’d be under 3:20, and thought briefly I could even go for a PR (3:17). Ā But alas I had waited too long to have a shot at that! Ā  I finished very strong in 3:18:44 on my watch and had a BQ by 6+ minutes. Ā I was very pleased with that!

Here’s the pace chart… Ā So much for 3:40 (8:25) to start! Ā But it never felt hard.

And the splits for the markers on the course… Ā Love the negative split and passing 40 runners in the last 10k!

Strava race analysis:

And final results:

Post race photos:

(David ran a 3:31 and was 2nd in the 60-64 age group!)

I’ll update here if I get any other photos from the race photographer…